In this paper I propose to examine why sensory science – a discipline within food science that “comprises a set of techniques for the accurate measurement of human responses to foods” – has historically struggled with assessing the sensory properties of “artisan foods.” As a sensory scientist, I am concerned that this limits the discipline and underserves whole categories of foods and consumer experiences. I will demonstrate that the historical relationship between sensory science and the food industry has led to certain assumptions within the discipline that do not apply outside of industrial food production, and so undermine the assessment of artisan foods. I outline this historical relationship, explain the disciplinary assumptions I believe are problematic, and briefly demonstrate – using some of my own research – the need for sensory methodologies that are broadly applicable to foods produced in different paradigms.
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Sensory science, the food industry, and the objectification of taste